Tag Archives: jazz

New Orleans, Louisiana

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We left Savannah, Georgia and drove Highway 10 and saw parts of Florida, Alabama and Mississippi on our way to New Orleans, Louisiana.  We arrived at our hotel, the Prince Conti, in early evening and were delighted with our accommodation.  An historic, privately owned hotel situated just a block off Bourbon Street, the Prince Conti was perfectly situated, authentically furnished, clean and close to everything we wanted to visit.IMG_3411

After checking in, we took a stroll around the French Quarter and stopped for dinner at a restaurant overlooking Bourbon Street and all the action.  We shared a salad and we tasted our first crawfish etoufee with a lovely salad and glass of sauvignon blanc – delicious!

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Ron visited New Orleans about fifteen years ago as his Dad, Jake, was born there, but this was my first visit.  I had wanted to celebrate my fortieth birthday in New Orleans, but that didn’t happen and I hadn’t made it any other time since.  I am so glad that my first visit here was with Ron – I absolutely believe that I was meant to wait to share it with him.

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Our bellman at the hotel, Chad, recommended that we leave our car the next day and, instead, take the cablecars to explore.  It was a great suggestion – for $3 each, we were able to travel all over the city (until 4:00 the next morning!), get on and off with no restrictions, and explore the city with total freedom.  We had a fabulous day!  Our first stop was the New Orleans Museum of Art (NOMA) where we took in the Sculpture Gardens and then the actual museum itself.  NOMA has a wonderful collection of art and we were able to view pieces from some great contemporary artists as well as some of the masters such as Degas, Renoire, Picasso, etc.

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The restaurant at the NOMA is rated one of the top ten museums restaurants in America, so we decided to have lunch there (we shared some delicious gazpacho, salad and a Cubano sandwich with a glass of red wine) before heading out on our next streetcar adventure.

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Our next stop was the Garden District, where we jumped off the streetcar and explored Audubon Park, then walked for miles back towards the center of the city to fully appreciate the beautiful homes and magnificent architecture.  Our final streetcar adventure was the River District, from where we walked back through the French Quarter to our hotel, after getting foot reflexology at a little establishment en route.  That foot rub felt SO good after so much walking!

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After a quick shower at the hotel, we headed to Deanie’s for dinner and enjoyed a feast of charbroiled oysters, salad and crab stuffed flounder with a glass of sauvignon blanc.  We grabbed a cab and headed to the Maple Leaf Bar to listen to some live jazz.  Ron had been to this club on his last visit and it is ALL about the music – seven nights per week.  The band that was playing that Tuesday night was the Rebirth Brass Band that is comprised of three trumpets, two trombones, one tuba, two saxophones, bass and snare drums and other percussion (including congas).   The music was phenomenal!  We picked up their CD entitled “Rebirth of New Orleans” to keep their music with us and remind of an evening of music that literally blew the roof off.

Our cab drivers both to and from the Maple Leaf Bar were a delight.  On the way to the club we rode with Manuel, an author who wrote of his escape from Ethiopia over a decade ago.  He wrote his book in his native language, which we should try to find for our beautiful Ethiopian friends, Liya Kebede and Winnie Schulman.  Our cab driver for the return trip was Oscar, a New Orleans native who we hope will come to see us in Cabo with his wife and daughter.

One of the highlights of our trip to the Maple Leaf Bar was driving through the area that Tulane and Loyola Universities are situated in.  The campuses of both universities are spectacular!

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Just before we left the city, we walked around the corner of our hotel to Thomas Edison Square, where live jazz is playing all day and night long, to sample a traditional New Orleans beignet and it was absolutely delicious.  Beignet – done that – and we can’t wait to return to New Orleans for more fabulous adventures and great memories.

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Savannah, Georgia

We arrived in Savannah, GA in late afternoon and parked near the waterfront as that appeared to be where the action was. There’s a lot of history in the south, most of it good and, unfortunately, some of it bad, but it’s important to take in as much as we can to understand the past. It’s hard to imagine the ships bringing slaves to the harbors of this beautiful city and the horrid treatment of people.

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We watched the sun set over the harbor and took a stroll down the historic marina area. We were feeling like listening to some live jazz, and were referred (by a lovely young woman in a gorgeous B&B we’d love to stay at on our next visit – see www.oldeharbourinn.com) to a nearby restaurant called Jazz’d (jazzdtapasbar.com) that serves tapas – perfect! We shared some fabulous dishes: She Crab Stew (a Savannah favorite cream based stew with chunks of blue crab and vegetables), Sauteed Mushroom Ratatouille, Fish Tacos “A La Plancha” and Chorizo Sliders with a glass of California pinot noir. A two-piece blues band called Bottles and Cans (Ray Lundy and Mike Walker) were playing and we thoroughly enjoyed them, despite that we were hoping to hear some jazz that night. Both musicians play guitar, but Ray’s voice is really unique; raspy and whisky-soaked.

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The couple sitting at the adjacent table from Charlotte, North Carolina, Hillier and Yvonne, bought us a glass of wine to welcome us to the south and, before the end of the evening, we were able to buy them a glass of port to thank them and put a smooth finish to our conversation and evening. Hillier and Yvonne have only been seeing one another a few months and I think they would be close to our ages. Hillier commented that he couldn’t imagine travelling like we have and felt that, as a man of color, that it wouldn’t be possible. We struggled to understand his viewpoint, but respect that he has a right to that belief. Only he has walked in his shoes and lived in his skin. We thoroughly enjoyed meeting them and sharing some fine music and conversation and were grateful to have met them.

Washington, DC

We headed to Washington, DC when we left Baltimore. We weren’t in a great hurry to visit Washington until we were sure that the government workers were back to work and everything was open again after the sequester and closures. The time we waited was worthwhile as two days before we wouldn’t have been able to access many of the buildings, memorials or even public bathrooms.

It’s quite thrilling to see the capital buildings, even from a distance. We caught sight of the Capital Dome far away on Washington Avenue and it really is an impressive sight. Ron had been once before but it was my first visit.

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We parked next to a public park quite far from the capital buildings and were greeted and serenaded with a song from Steve, one of the homeless men that spent their days there. Ron gave him some money to watch our car and he played his jazz rendition of Stormy Weather on his old trumpet to thank us. He and his friends couldn’t have been nicer and we were trusting that they really would watch our vehicle while we were touring the sights.

Steve Playing "Stormy Weather"

The White House, House of Representatives and the House of the Senate were very impressive. Despite all of the divisiveness and conflict that the government has endured as of late, you can’t help but be awed and inspired by the US capital – considered historically the most powerful nation in the world.

We walked for miles that day and were moved tremendously by the World War II Memorial and, more impactfully, by the Vietnam War Memorial. There was a contingency of elderly servicemen and their families/caregivers that were taking them through the memorials and it was a very emotional experience to watch. For us, reading the names of the tens of thousands of men who gave their lives senselessly in the Vietnam War and knowing that Ron could have been one of them was very moving, to say the least.

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The Washington Monument was encased with scaffolding and undergoing repair, but the National Botanical Garden, National Mall and all of the other monuments, parks and memorials were open and very impressive. The weather that day was perfect which only added to our experience.

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We were delighted to find our car exactly as we had left it even though Steve and his friends had left the park. We can only hope that the money we gave him went towards food and/or shelter and helped him in some way. Ron jokingly said that he hoped that Steve and his friends bought and enjoyed a nice bottle of California red wine on us – whatever! One more opportunity to be very grateful for what we have and the life we lead.